The first time I attended a Mashpee town meeting (sitting on my mother’s knee) was at least sixty years ago. In those days, election and town meeting were taken care of in one day. That was a time when the total town budget was less than the town’s highest salary today. But this is not about town politics or budgets, but about chowder. My best memories of election and town meeting day was the chowder served, a savory blend of quahogs, onions, salt pork, and potatoes, eaten with a handful of crunched up crackers. There were always cans of Carnation milk on the tables for those who wanted to add it, but I never did. I loved my briny chowder then, and I still do.
What I don’t care for is the viscous, gloppy, sea clam based offerings in Cape Cod restaurants today. Somehow the term “creamy’ has been adopted as a desirable attribute of chowder, but that is just flour thickener. Traditional chowders have sometimes used a little thickener, but often the potatoes provided all the body needed. Call me old fashioned, but I don’t think you should be able to stand up a spoon in your chowder. That being said, many of these chowders are tasty, even if of an unlovely texture, particularly if they are made from quahogs.
Chowder is a traditional food of the poorer classes. A peck of quahogs from the bay, a few potatoes and a large onion from the garden, and a piece of salt pork, some canned milk, and a bag of “common crackers*” from the store would make a tasty and filling meal. No seasonings, except maybe some pepper and a dot of butter, were necessary. There are still people making chowder this way, but I fear that their passing, and mine, will deprive future generations of the genuine article. So, if anyone reads, and heeds my words here today, beg, borrow, or steal a recipe and make some chowdah!
Some things, like love, good times, and chowder, should never change.
* Not so common any more, and expensive. Here is a 12 oz. bag for $6.59!











